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OPTIMAL JUMP HEIGHT FOR DOG OBEDIENCE?
by Suzanne Clothier
Note: This originally appeared as a response from Suzanne to questions received from a member of the Obed-Comp Email List.
Her answers were in turn posted to the list.
QUESTION: This [new jump height rule] seems to present a
new opportunity: don't train the dog to jump an arbitrary height, but rather match the
proper jump height (and broad jump distance of twice the height) to the dog! Now I'm
wondering, is there an optimal jump height for a given dog, and if so, what are the
factors determining that height (e.g., stride, weight, shoulder height)?
SUZANNE CLOTHIER: I'm not sure what you mean by
"optimal" -- do you mean least stressful? most comfortable? the height that
brings out the best in the dog's jumping style? easiest? I'll assume you mean the lowest
jump possible that allows the dog to jump with correct form (thus reducing stress); a
lowered height naturally offers less concussive force, but is NOT always the best choice
for "some" dogs.
The dog's jumping abilities are comprised of structural attributes, functional attributes
(flexibility, balance, strength), his knowledge of the complicated process of jumping, and
his personality. Regardless of the breed, if the dog is not thoroughly trained, he will
have jumping problems. Regardless of the training, if the dog has physical limitations
(which can be as subtle as a difference in range of motion from one leg to another), he
will have jumping problems. By jumping problems, I mean that he may have trouble reaching
certain heights (problems usually begin to show themselves even to an unskilled eye as the
dog approaches shoulder height). However, some dogs are blessed with excellent structure,
superb muscling, iron ligamentation and a long-legged, relatively light frame. Combine
this with a "gung-ho" personality, and you will have a dog who can probably
succeed at AKC heights even without much skill. On the agility course, however, this dog
will demonstrate his lack of knowledge and/or physical limitations.
I have seen beautiful jumpers that were Bulldogs, Am Staffs, Newfs, Frenchies &
Corgis, so don't assume that correct jumping is limited by body type. There are decided
limitations to these breeds due to the fact that they were not designed to jump. In each
case, however, these dogs had been carefully and systematically schooled in jumping
skills, and were flexible, balanced, and well-structured. On the other hand, I've seen
many, many individuals of "athletic" breeds who were horrible jumpers.
As a general rule, the further from the natural canine norm that a dog's structure falls,
the more difficult jumping will become. By canine norm, I mean Nature's own version of the
dog; for clarification on that, look to the pariah dogs, any 3rd generation mixed breed,
the coyote and the wolf. All possess light frames, long legs, moderate angulation, iron
ligamentation and considerable flexibility.
My gut reaction is that the optimal height is the lowest allowed height. However, I wonder
whether there is a bio-mechanical or jump-form or even motivational related reason for
jumping more than shoulder height of the dog.
Oddly, some of the most talented jumpers I know do NOT jump cleanly or well at lower
heights. They are often sloppy until shoulder height or sometimes much greater is
achieved. (This is well known in horses - some of the most talented jumping horses in the
world were extremely sloppy at lower heights but precise and clean at staggeringly high
jumps.) My experience leads me to believe that for these dogs and horses, the
"demand" of the jump has to be fairly strong before they actually begin to use
what they have. Kind of like taking a Maserati out on a 55 MPH highway, I guess!
A top agility competitor, Marietta Huber of Illinois, trained with me for a while. Her
black Lab, Licorice, had to be worked at 36" jumps (including 36" high by
36" wide) to keep him from being sloppy at 30".
Some of this also has a physiological basis -- ideally, for competition, an athlete needs
to be "overtrained" - that is, trained 15 - 20% beyond the competition demand.
This allows for the reduction in ability due to the stress of competition, and insures
that the competition demand is well within the athlete's limits, not barely within his
grasp. For this reason, my jumping program also conditions the dog for repeated efforts,
so that the two jumps required in AKC obedience is well within his capabilities in terms
of muscular effort.
Many trainers make a serious error with training their dogs to jump when they reach
competition height (whatever that may be) and stop at that point. Seminar participants and
students are often shocked when I recommend that a dog be worked 2 - 6" above his
competition height. This assumes, of course, that the dog is physically, structurally,
emotionally, and functionally capable! (Again, this is standard in horse training. A horse
who competes at 3'6" jump heights often trains at home at 3'9" - 4' jumps. And
dogs are far superior athletes and jumpers compared to the horse.) For me, I think a dog
who cannot comfortably meet and exceed his competition height does not belong in that
class!
I have been evaluating jumping dogs since 1989, and have done so coast to coast. My
experience has shown me that most handlers and instructors are unable to accurately assess
a dog's athletic abilities and limitations. Without such information, it is difficult to
be fair to the dog. Assuming that the dog is fine is grossly unfair. I urge anyone
seriously concerned (as they should be) about the impact of jumping on their dog's well
being to rent, borrow or buy "Your Athletic Dog"
- it is the only video on the market that shows you how to assess your dog's athletic
abilities, and how to improve weakness and minimize problems. Handlers are often stunned
to realize that physical limitations were the source of many, many performance problems -
from crooked sits to sloppy fronts to arcing go-outs to jumping problems - even to
problems in tracking!
The more you know about your dog, the more humane and fair you can be in your decisions as
a trainer. Dogs are not volunteers in this sport - they are draftees. It is the handler's
moral obligation to collect as much information as possible about the dog before making
demands on a dog or making a decision on the dog's behalf.
Jumping is a complex movement, which requires considerable training of the nervous and
muscular systems. Please - train your dog in a way that systematically and progressively
educates him. He will repay your investment of time with confidence, style and most
importantly, the skills he needs to perform at his best with minimal risk of injury.
I will never live long enough to understand why people get so hysterical about jump
heights. The sport is "obedience" - NOT physical prowess! I cannot see where a
lower jump takes away from the dog's willingness to be obedient. I have seen so many dogs
who were physically and structurally not suited for jumping, but their owners were
determined to get that qualifying leg anyway. For these dogs, I am glad the jump heights are lowered.
Hopefully, this will limit their injuries, distress and the horrible methods used to
"train" (torture?)
a dog who is failing but probably doing the very best he can (i.e., throwing them over the jump, longlining them, electric collars and electric jump bars, pulling strings to throw them
off, plexiglass/wire "surprises", nails driven into the top of the jumps, etc.).
Given the history and function of many breeds, it seems only reasonable to offer
exemptions. Right down to the muscle cells and the rate at which they twitch, breeds ARE
different, and blessed with different abilities. We should all probably keep in mind that
AKC obedience sprang from a PR campaign to prove that purebred dogs were not stupid! Since
the dogs involved in this were Standard Poodles, their trainer naturally selected
behaviors that were well within a poodle's repertoire - jumping, retrieving, heeling, etc.
Had Ms. Helen Whitehouse Walker been the owner of Cairn Terriers instead of poodles, we
might all be trying to fit our St. Bernards into a 9" piece of pipe and convincing
them to hunt rats to demonstrate their brilliance!
Thanks for asking for my opinion - hope some of this was helpful.
Suzanne Clothier
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